Summer Intensives... Part Four (Friday 22nd 2014)

Dear Sal...

Crack open the vodka and  prepare the bunting. The day has finally arrived. After four long weeks of early morning classes, I can breath a sigh of relief. Summer intensives are over. 

The last week of term has been chaos. After my room change on Monday I have nothing but problems all week. A man came Wednesday morning to put WiFi in my class room, which meant me and my students had to evacuate to another room, only for me to find my files wouldn't work on that computer. So off we went on an escapade to find yet another room suitable for my needs. For the rest of this week I have been migrating from room to room like a nomad.

The last week of term, as joyuous event as it is, has one financial downside. Pizza parties. I suppose it's a good idea. It certainly makes the kids happy and behave themselves. But buying pizza for over forty or so kids soon racks up. That's right, we have to pay for our own students. You think the school, who are making a small fortune I'm sure, would be kind enough to foot the bill. But no. They have been fun; Eating, talking, playing games and listening to music. A Korean teenage girl turns from a sweet, softly spoken thing into a squealing mess at the sight of EXO. a boy bad, I've been lead to believe, consisting of eleven members. I deeply regret playing that music video and can't get the bloody song out of my head.

A new teacher arrives tonight. We are going for a meal at the same place that we went on my first night, as the tradition continues. I can still remember like it was yesterday. The nerves, the tiredness, the confusion. I miss it. I look forward to meeting our new college and to reassure her she'll be fine.

I hope you had a good birthday and didn't drink too much. Who am I kidding?

Love, hugs and if I see one more bloody pizza...

Samuel James

Every Duck has its Day... (Monday 18th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

How I wish there was some sort of break between each term, but alas, this is Korea. As one term ends on Friday another begins on Monday. There is not a single week, let alone day off for this fool. The last week of term started off like so many over the last month, raining. There had been a plan to spend Sunday at Suseong Lake, riding the duck paddle boats before going to a near by restaurant to eat duck. The rain however had other ideas. 

The loss of our adventure on the paddle boats was no skin off my back, having previously experience the, harder then you would expect, activity a few months before. It was the meal of duck I was looking forward too and it didn't disappoint. Quite possibly the best meal I have had in Korea, I will defiantly be coming back for more. As we ran through the now pouring rain to our taxis home I had one thought on my mind, only one week of intensives left, thank the lord. 

The rain continued all night and well into the next day, and while I heard tale of some peoples class rooms being flooded I found mine to be dry as a bone, but empty. No desks, no chairs and none of my belongings. A photocopier now resided at the back of my class where I had often stood to see if the students were doing their work or surfing the internet. What the-? 

"Sam Sam?" I heard my name being called from my mangers office across the hall. Apparently their brilliant new idea was to turn my class room into a copy room and parents consultation room. I had been ousted down the hall to room 707, the end of the line. Not a problem at all, with a new teacher coming next week I would be moving class room anyway, so why not now. It wasn't until about fifteen minuets before class started that I discovered my first problem. 

As I moved desks around I glaceed to above the white board, I thought I would check what my WiFi code was so I could write it down to make the students lives easier. WiFi is essential for the tablet classes, to connect to the students tablets and the lessons themselves. There was nothing there. No little white box blinking green lights at me. They had moved me to a room with no WiFi, a room in which I could not teach. After a brief moment of panic and a swift reshuffling of class rooms, everything was sorted, kind of. I had a class room with WiFi, but it wasn't mine. I had to move to another room for my next class adding to the confusion. Who knows where I will end up for the rest of the week. 

My second problem however, was much more severe. No remote to turn on the air-con... it hangs from the ceiling eight foot above my head taunting me. I don't know if I can make it.

Love, hugs and wait, where is the remote?!

Samuel James.

Summer Intensives... Part Three (Sunday 17th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal...

This week has been a horrendous crawl to the finish line. I thought I would have gotten used to the early starts and late nights by now, but I'm not. I guess I'm just not as young as I used to be. My body is really taking a hit and for the first time since coming to Korea I feel unwell. In My first few months in Korea my body was able to with stand so much. A complete cultural diet change, a new sleeping pattern and a excessively increased alcohol level. And I felt fine. A little tired every now again but fine. Maybe a little bit hungover, ok, a lot hangover, but fine. 

Back in England I suffered constantly with bad hay fever and allergic reactions to numerous things, not taking any medicine played its part. I thought I would be much the same in Korea. But after being here this long and feeling fine I started to wonder why. Maybe a plant exclusive to the English shores or perhaps the climate. Whatever it is, in Korea I have been free of this demon that has haunted me for years. However, after three weeks or lack of sleep due to these summer intensives my body seems to be finally giving up. It feels like I have a cold and I bloody well hate it.

One of my students brought me in some onion juice proclaiming, "it good for health." That it may be, but it tasted vile. I'd rather eat an onion like an apple then drink that again. I had about six of my young students crowd round me as I began to drink. "One shot, one shot, one shot" they chanted, but I was unable to complete the task. I love onions, in a lasagna, just not in juice form. I do not intend to have anymore, even if it will help me "live many Year"

The knowledge that there is only one week left of these lesson is a blessing. I long to have my mornings back. But also knowing that the term ends at the same time brings other feelings, as some people leave and new ones arrive.

Love, hugs and ah, ah, ah choo!

Samuel James

Busan... (Thursday 14th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

A few weekends ago I made my way down to Busan. We had been planning to go on and off for a few weeks, but every time something came up. Usually a hangover. This week however the excuse was lack of money. So I made plans to have a few drinks with some friends on Friday and spend my Saturday relaxing/recovering. That was until I woke up to find a message, "come to Busan. now." I hesitantly pealed myself off my friends sofa, where I had past out a few hours before and slowly made my way home to get ready to go. 

The KTX journey from Daegu to Busan takes about an hour and twenty minutes. It costs only fifteen thousand won, which is not bad, I don't know why I don't do this more often. When I finally arrived the veil of my hangover was gradually beginning to lift. I met Jason, who had arrived several hours prior, and we were off. The first stop was the fish market. The sight of some of these deceased fish did nothing for my stomach, which ached still from the night before. Looking into their googly eyes lifelessly staring back at me I thought, things could be worse. 

I don't know why but in every market in Korea they will all serve the same dish, a united front maybe. In Daegu it's soup, in Cheonan it was fried chicken and in Busan it's fried fish. We walked past fried fish after fried fish until we eventually decided we would reluctantly eat it, but which one? This wasn't a problem, as we where accosted by an ajummar, who swiftly took us inside her eatery. We removed our shoes and found our way to some empty seats, and by seats I mean a small flat cushion on the floor. I don't think I will ever get used to sitting like this to eat. 

Later, as we walked along the the cost to Haeundae through the light drizzle of rain, I had some stomach pains. They caused me to have to stop and sit down for a while. Maybe it was something I ate or maybe the soju we had with our late lunch, but after a sort time it had passed and we continued to look for food before finding a place to sleep for the night.  This isn't my first visit to Busan, in fact the first time I came here was over three years ago when David and I came to visit Lily. So I Had a weird sense of deja vu when we randomly found the the same jimjibang that the three of us had stayed in all those years ago. I couldn't sleep on the flimsy towel provided, so I sat on the balcony smoking a cigarette looking over the city, thinking about how much my life has changed. 

Then next morning I awoke in a room full of passed out Koreans softly snoring all around me. The clouds from the day before had cleared and the sun was shinning. I brought a pair of cheep flip-flops from a crazy Korean women, who kept proclaiming things like "sexy clothes for sexy ladies" and "you give me money" to random passers by. Jason responded with a firm "ha" which sent her in to hysterics, she had a need phrase to exclaim and she wasted no time in using it. We heard "ha" repeated several times as we walked away. We continued along the the beach all afternoon from Haeundae to Suyeong-gu, stopping at various locations along the way. We found sustenance in a nice Korean place, where we played the game of chance and won... kind of. We think we may have eaten raw eel, which isn't half as bad as it sounds.

 

Strolling in the hot sun felt wonderful, feeling the cool water rush over my feet kept me at a comfortable temperature. After several hours we arrived at the United Nations Memorial garden, another place I have been before and took a quick look around, just at the right moment. We witness the daily ritual of lowering the flag. Each move was so precise, so exact its was almost like a dance. So much love and care was taken just to to take down a colorful piece of fabric, which means so much to so many people.

Busans relaxed environment, make it the perfect place to get away too at the weekends, I didn't want to leave. If I stay in Korea another year maybe I will move down here... 

Love, hugs and raw eels.

Samuel James.

And the rain, rain, rain, come down, down, down... (Wednesday 13th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

Over the last few months we have been blessed in Daegu with exceptionally good weather, according to some people. But not now. It's typhoon season and it's been raining, a lot. While the westerners complain and moan, and the Koreans run for shelter and refuse to come out, I welcome the downpours with open arms. The air turns from the sweat dripping humidity, to refreshingly cool and damp. Not that I can really enjoy this change in weather as I spend most of the week in a windowless cell. I mean, classroom. 

Wednesday arrives and is like an oasis in the desert of Korean education. Finishing work at seven instead of ten makes a massive difference. The much needed evening class off makes Wednesdays one of my favorite days of the week. This week I went for dinner and drinks with friends. 

The decision making process as to where to eat is always a struggle. I have learned to go with the flow. Allowing other, more fussy people, to make the final call. I am more then happy to try anything in this country. I mean, I've already nearly eaten a whole pig. Belly, back, neck, intestine even hoof, the meat that is. I'm still looking for a restaurant that serves snout, but have found no success thus far. It was finally decided that we would dine in a place called 'What', a Korean barbecue place. 

For the last two months I have been on a beer ban. I had been drinking too much, it's a waste of money and I genuinely just hate the stuff. However, that evening I caved. I fell victim to peer pressure and had a beer. We also drank soju, bloody, buggery soju. As the night progressed so did the drinks. I originally planned to leave around eleven. This curfew was push back to twelve, then again to one. Around two I thought, maybe it's best to call it a night. But after drinking so much I thought it would be a good idea to get something to eat first. The last time I mixed this much alcohol I had one of the worst hangovers of my life, and I didn't want that to happen again. 

I have been in Korea for six months and I still have yet to learn the language. Something I have been meaning to do every week since I arrived. So going to traditional Korean restaurants is always a game of chance. Normally, it is as simple as pointing to a picture on the wall and hoping the meat is pork and not dog, but last night there where no pictures... So, after some tough decision making on my part, I pointed at two dishes with absolutely no idea what I had just ordered. 

I was pleasantly surprise by the first dish, which was some sort of blood sausage. The second dish however, left me slightly concerned. When I asked the woman what meat I was reluctantly consuming, she rubbed her belly and said 'baby'. I only hope she didn't mean hers. Whatever I ate, the next day I was blessed with no hangover. Had I finally found the cure I've searching for all these years? Only time will tell...

Love, hugs and what the hell is this?

Samuel James

Summer Intensives... Part Two. (Friday 8th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal...

As the Temperature continues to rise, my body continues to fail to adjust. I was warned that the summers in Daegu would be hot, but this is ridiculous. And apparently this has been a cool one. While most people thrive in the heat, I wilt, missing English summers of lukewarm weather, occasional rain and of course, working less. After two weeks of three morning classes I'm slowly getting used to my eradicate sleep scheduled. I imagine I will finally get used to it just in time for them to finish at the end of the month.

Yesterday morning, I came into my class room after the arduous journey to work in the early morning sun, seeking sanctuary from the heat. Usually my class room is a haven of cool refreshing air, but not today. When I arrived I found it as hot and uncomfortable as it was outside. In Korea, I have learned the joy and everyday necessity of the greatest invention of all time, air conditioning. I ran to the front desk, where the only member of Korean staff was. "Amy, Amy, air con, no work. I die!"
As you can see, my English has gone down hill somewhat when it comes to communicating with the Koreans I work with, who speak little to no English. Amy looked up at me, uttered something in Korean, smiled and went back to her work. After a moment of confusion so did I. 

I sat in my class room desperately trying to prepare my lessons. Printing tests, class handouts and other documents, but found myself unable to focus on the simplest of tasks. The more I moved around the warmer my body became and the more and more I sweated. With only moments before my class was due to start, just as the bell rang in fact, the air con sprung to left admitted a burst of cold air and my salvation. Thank the lord. This unimaginable nightmare latest nearly a whole fifteen minutes... which was far to long, I pray this never happens again. 

I have a new menace in the class room, the mosquito. Korean children are generally very on edge as it is. The sight of a dog on the street that's bigger then a cat will send them jumping into the road. Apparently ending ones life is better then crossing the path of mans best friend. Insects however, are worse. If a lone mosquito is seen flying round the class room my students go into hysterics. They will jump out of their seats, run to the other side of the room and even scream. Its lucky my class room has no windows, otherwise I'm sure they would throw themselves to their own deaths. 

This week, during one of the brief five minute breaks we have, I left my class to escape the sounds of the children talking a mile a minutes in their native tong. Upon returning I discovered my class room filled with a toxic smoke. The Korean teacher, in all her wisdom, had literally filled the room with bug spray. Making my class inhabitable for over fifteen minutes, all for one lonely mosquito. For the rest of the day I had a uncomfortable tickled in the back of my throat. 

Needless to say, I have taken control of all insect related incidents now. I have become quite adept at swotting the little bastards before the children even know they're there. 

love, hugs and will you just ignore the bloody thing!  

Samuel James.

Jeonju... (Thursday 7th August 2014)

Dear Sal,

I know I have been writing to you a lot over the last week, but we have so much to catch up on. Just imagine you're Celie in The Color Purple and you've received all your sisters letters after all these years. I mean it's pretty much the same. Except for I'm in Korea and she was in Africa,oh and we're not related. Also, I wasn't forced to leave you and my letters weren't deliberately detained by an angry, jealous husband. So... yeah.

After leaving the Independence Hall of Korea, my friend Jason and I made our way to the train station and headed to our next destination, Jeonju. We arrived in the early evening at dusk. The station is an elegant building made to resemble the traditional Korean design the city is known for. While in Daegu there isn't much left of the old Korea after the Japanese burned everything to the ground, Jeonju managed to avoid the wrath of the Japanese. The small city it littered with old palaces, temples and other beautiful Buildings. 

The whole place was lit up, but not in a tacky way, it seemed almost elegant. It also seemed to have escaped the tourist trap, for western tourist at least. Since arriving we had not seen a single causation, which is pretty rare in Korea. As Jason and I walked truth the traditional hanok village, exploring the  ornately designed buildings, we drank from a bottle of orange Fanta. We had of course filled the bottle with a little bit of soju, and by a little I mean three bottles. My dinner consisted of a peanut butter and jam sandwich that I ate on the train, so it went straight to my head. Despite the light drizzle of rain, the magic of Jeonju was clear to see. I don't know if it was the atmosphere or the large amount of alcohol running through my blood stream, but It reminded me of Paris in a way. It's the only other city I've walked around in an evening and could feel myself falling in love with the place.

The morning came and with it, a hangover I should have expected. After downing a large coffee, and another peanut butter and jam sandwich I was ready to go. We made our way back towards the hanok village, which is just as charming in the daylight. We took a long look around the temple and museum, finding once again the grammar translation to be a highlight.

  

Jeonju is famous throughout Korea for it bibibap. People come from all over to just to eat the well known dish made with over sixty ingredients. However, the prices for this dish, which is normally very cheep, where ridiculous... for Korea. We decided to look around to find a better deal, but with no luck. 

After walking across the city in the direction of the bus station for over two hours we didn't pass a single restaurant. When we finally arrived at the bus station we found a small place and went straight inside. It was empty, normally not a good sign, but the place was perfectly fine. The woman was sweet and very excited to have two western men sit down and eat within her establishment. She spent most of the time on the phone telling her friend who she had eating there. It wasn't until after the food came that we realized it wasn't the famous bibibap of Jeonju we had ordered, but regular old bibibap. But after walking round all day on only a sandwich it was just what I needed.

I can't recommend paying a visit to Jeonju enough. So far, it's been my favorite place I have been to in Korea and I plan on returning at some point in the future. 

Love, hugs and gam sah ni da.

Samuel James.

Independence Hall of Korea... (Wednesday 6th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal....

A few weeks ago my adventures took me to the Independence Hall of Korea. I heard whispers on the wind that it's the largest museum in Korea, It's pretty big, but it's got nothing on the Tate, V&A or the Louvre. It's housed over six different buildings, has several giant monuments and even has it's own IMAX... I know right. I found It very interesting to see history through the eyes of the Koreans. 

I don't know if you know this (of course you don't) but Korea and Japan are arguing over who the island of Dokdo belongs to. There was a very large section of the museum dedicated to the Koreans 'favorite island', a place of outstanding natural beauty that all Koreans love and wish to visit. It's a rock, well two rocks really, that sit next to each other. Their dispute over this tiny island, which is so inhabitable that there is only one dock and one building their, has been going on for years apparently. For some reason there is a helicopter pad and I read somewhere it has over thirty Korean guards, just in case those pesky Japanese try to claim it.  

Films in multiple languages show how Japan has twisted the Koreans history over the years and how they refuse to apologize for the many, many, many wrongs they have done to their close neighbor. Apart from the hate filled Japan propaganda, there isn't really that much else to look at in the museum. They seem to have spent a lot of money on creepy looking wax works. They fill large rooms with these unsettling figures, it almost seems like they are trying to fill the massive space, which was almost completely unnecessary. Still, the scale of the place is very impressive. 

The Korean war, which I find one of the most interesting parts of the countries more recent history, is only slightly brushed over at the very end and in not very great detail. There was like a wall with a short bit of writing about it. That's all.

Maybe the next museum I visit can fill me in on some more of the details, but until then...  

Love, Hugs and curse you japan! 

Samuel James

Upo Wetlands... (Sunday 3rd Aug 2014)

Dear Sal... 

Over the last few months, while I haven't been writing to you, I have been trying my best to spend less time drinking and more time experiencing the culture of Korea beyond the walls of a bar. The first place outside of Daegu I found my way to was the Upo Wetlands. (I say Found my way, I of course went with friends who knew where they were going.)

Upo expands out across the wetlands of the beautiful Changnyeong countryside. It is made up of a collection of small pockets of water and one large lake that resides right in the middle. This natural beauty spot is home to several endangered species of plants, birds, mammals and fish. But the only thing I seem to see everywhere were bloody spiders. And I'm talking weird, bloody spiders. Big ugly black things, with bright yellow strips on them, and one of the most unusual webs I've ever seen. I mean just look at it!

 

Upo is a very tranquil and beautiful place, easy to get to, completely free of charge and absolutely riddled with insects. We did go on a Sunday, so maybe through out the week you have to pay, but I don't see why you would. 

Love, hugs and... hold on, where did that spider go?

Samuel James

Nearly Half Way... (Saturday 2nd Aug 2014)

Dear Sal...

I can't believe how quickly the time has gone. The end of my second term fast approaches, and that means I am nearly half way through my year long escapade to Korea. The time has come for me to begin thinking of the future, my future. A future I thought I knew six months ago, one I had laid out in front of me, one I was looking forward to. But things have changed and my horizon is now as empty as this Pringels packet sat next to me. 

I'm not sure what to do... Stay working for a company that isn't too bad, but isn't that great? Look for new work in Daegu, Busan or even Seoul? I just don't know. One thing I am absolutely certain of is that I  will not be returning to England, not yet anyway. I like Korea a lot, it has it's ups and it most certainly has it's downs. I really do like living here, but for a whole another year? Without holidays? 

I'm thinking I have two options. Stay in Korean another year but look for work in a different school, or look for a job in a different country... The obvious thing about staying in Korea is the money. Sorting out a new visa and traveling to a new country that might not even pay for my flights, or accommodation doesn't sound very appealing.... Also I could save so much more here. I've been so frivolous with money in the past, now I'm actually earning a decent amount and am able to save I might as well save as much as I can, right? yes? No? What do you think? 

It's still early days, but over the last couple of weeks work has lost some of its charm. I begin to, not simple get annoyed at students, but to loath some of them. Don't get me wrong, some of the students are wonderful and make coming to work a joy, others however do not. And its not even their fault, they don't want to be here. It's their summer vacation and their parents are making them come to these English Academies two, three or even five times a week. Who can blame them for being disinterest, bored and rude? I know I would be at that age.

I won't be making any rush decisions just yet, I still have another six months to get through. Life here is so unexpected, I might change my mind entirely and come home tomorrow or stay forever. Who knows? I sure as hell don't. 

Love, hugs and - will you stop doing that!

Samuel James.

Summer Intensives... (Friday 1st Aug 2014)

Dear Sal...

Last week, something wonderful happened to the children of the world. School ended and the summer holidays began. They have five glorious weeks of no education, no homework, no studying, no words tests. Nothing to trouble their over worked little minds... But not in Korea. There will be no freedom for these children. Not with English academies out for all the money they can get. 

If it wasn't enough to keep these schools open through out the childrens holidays, in all their greedy wisdom the academies have something very exciting called, summer intensives. What's that I hear you ask? Well, I'll tell you. It's three additinal lessons a week in the mornings, along with the evening classes the students have to attend. Score!

So on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings I have to arise around eight thirty to start my three hour class at ten AM. It ins't too bad, I mean I do get over time for it, and it is only for four weeks. It's just that I have to work until ten PM everyday. My sleep pattern is all over the place. I long for my weekends, as my weekday activities have come to a grinding halt as my body adjusts to my erratic sleep pattern. 

I'm so tired and it's only been one week so far. Wish me luck. 

Love, Hugs and wait, what time is it?

Samuel James.