Dear Sal... A collection of letters home to England from South Korea.

Wednesday 25 March 2015

Masters... (Wednesday 25th March 2015)

Dear Sal,

It was absolutely wonderful to see you last weekend. The overwhelming emotions of seeing you after well over a year was such a surprise. It wasn't until I saw that I realised just how much I missed you. I dread to think how I will react to seeing my family when I return to England in two months.  I'm so glad to see that you are settling in to your new life over here and are enjoying the work with the tiny elementary students you teach, who are a stack contrast to the students I have.

For the last term I have been taking the highest level classes my hagwon provides, Masters. This class quickly became one of my favorites to teach. The skill level of these students is vast and I have a feeling some of them are far more intelligent then I could ever hope to be. The lessons focus on English literature and involve reading such books as Ender's Game, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn and discussing the themes and tone of these novels in great detail. The lessons are a pleasure to teach but mean a lot more work for me.

The high level of these students allows for more flexibility in the subject matter and vocabulary that one can us within the confines of a Korean class room, including swear words. In one class the subject of periods came up, as well as attempted rape. This week we have been reading To Kill a Mockingbird, focusing on the Jim Crow Laws. (I assume you have heard of them and I don't need to go into detail to explain it, if you haven't then Google it now, then come back and continue reading.) The students reaction to some of the images we looked at can be very shocking when you first experience it. They laugh at the sight of a golliwog, giggled when they saw a man in a minstrel show wearing black face, the discrimination of another race is all fun and games to a child who knows no better. It wasn't until I showed them an image of lynching that the laughter subsided. 

Something you will soon realise since you've moved here is that the children may come across as, well a little racist. I found this out within a few weeks of teaching when I showed my students a video of a starving African girl who was crying after the death of her mother to malnutrition. They found this harrowing video highly amusing. I shouted at them for their disrespectful behavior, which seemed to go completely over their heads. But it's not there fault.

Up until about fifteen years ago, Korea was one of the most homogeneous countries in the world. And while we grew up in a culturally divers environment, they did not. Outside of the big cities it's rare to see a foreigner, let alone one whose skin is a completely different colour to their own. These children do not hate, they just don't understand. They don't know how to react to someone different from them and so, they laugh. Korea is a very proud and very hospitable country, I have felt completely safe and at home since first stepping foot here and I am sure you will feel the same once you've settled in. Just a heads up. 

Love, hugs and what in the Sam Hill are you doing?

Samuel James

Sunday 22 March 2015

Daegu to Andong... (Sunday 22nd March 2015)

Dear Sal,

Once again I have neglected you. Sorry, I'm not sorry. You may think that I have grown increasingly lazy over the last few months but this just isn't the case. Well, maybe a little.

With Jason's last visit at the end of February came a bombardment of social events. His brief two week stay meant most nights we were out, eating, drinking and drinking some more. It took it's tole on me both financially and physically. I'm broke, I say broke what I really mean is I went into my savings, and I am exhausted. With a new term starting as well means more preparation and work to be done. This term I have two classes that I have to pretty much plan myself, where as before I was given a tablet and a lesson plan for three hours, I am now handed a book that barely covers an hour and told to just 'think of something'. For the first time since I started over a year ago I have been stressed about work. I know I shouldn't moan, and that others have more work to do planning every lesson, but I haven't had any training for this. And I'm terrified they will realise I'm a fraud, who couldn't teach a fish how to swim.

Jason was a great distraction and I loved seeing him, but like every visit he makes comes a pang of sadness, as I know he will be leaving again all too soon. Saying goodbye doesn't get any easier. Other then that I haven't done much else. Oh, I got a TV finally! It's one of those big old box ones, it was free so I can't complain.

But enough about me, how are you? You're finally here and have started work. How are you finding it? I have so many questions for you. And I will ask you them in due time. As I write this I am currently on a train to Andong to meet you. I'm sat next to this old women who has no sense of personal space and who is eating dried fish. Wonderful.

I look forward to hearing about all you recent korean endeavours and seeing your hideous, I mean beautiful, face.

Love, hungs and dried fish.

Samuel James.

Wednesday 28 January 2015

Kimchi Jjigae... (Wednesday 28th Jan 2015)

Dear Sal,

Ah, kimchi. If Korea was a food that would be it. A spicy, fermented cabbage. which some people love, while others loath. Or they might be like me, and find the idea of it disgusting, but upon trying it find they like it a lot. Koreans love the stuff, consuming it every day with every meal, throwing it in to every recipe they can think of. This week I felt like being adventurous in my kitchen, and decided I needed to make something that contained Koreans most famous food. So here is my, a little less spicy then it should be, home made kimchi jjigae.

Ingredients: Cubed beef, pork or tuna. Or you could even make it without any meant at all. Onion, spring onions and napa cabbage kimchi. Some gochunjany (which is Korean red chili pepper paste) and a slice of tofu that's been cubed. Soy sauce, salt and pepper to taste. And rice!

Step One: Mince the garlic, chop the onions and open the pre cut meat. Throw them all in to a pot with some sesame seed oil, or what ever stuff you have. Lightly brown the meat for a few minutes on a low heat, then add the kimchi and let it fry for a further few minutes. It may not smell very appetizing but don't let that fool you. 



Step Two: Next, add a couple of pints of water or maybe a little more, what the hell, make it three. Then a generous tablet spoon of gochunjany, a dash of soy sauce and as much salt and pepper as you want. Stir well and let it simmer for about thirty minutes, covering it with a lid with just a tiny gap to let the steam out. 


Step Three: While you wait you can prepare the tofu. I forgot to mention the rice again, you need to make the rice and prepare the tofu. You need to cut it into large cubes, not too small as they will fall apart in the stew and ruin it! After the thirty minutes is up, add the tofu and let it simmer for an additional ten. 


Step Four: Traditionally it is served in the steaming hot bowl that cooked it. Some people crack an egg in the top just before serving, but I already I ate two eggs today. Garnish with chopped spring onions and sesame seeds and there you have it, homemade kimchi jjigae.


This meal is quick and easy to make and ideal for those cold winter nights of Korea. This recipes serves four, which means my meals are covered for the week. 

Love, hugs and spicy, fermented cabbage.

Samuel James.

Tuesday 27 January 2015

Level Up Test... (Tuesday 27th Jan 2015)

Dear Sal, 

Once a term, for one whole week the students of my hagwon are subjected to the agonizing horror that is, the level up test. This standardized test measures each and every child of various levels of skills and ages and decides if they meet countries predetermined score standard. If they do then wonderful, but if they don't... may God have mercy on their soul. 

The children absolutely detest it, and I can understand why. There is so much pressure put on the shoulders of these tiny children to score extremely well. Not just at the national average but above it, and above their friends. This is mostly down to the parents. Last week I had a meeting with one of the Korean teachers to give a verbal student report. We got a little off topic and she told me all about how competitive the parents of the children really are, and how much they urge their children to succeed. They have every thing planned out for them from their future, their dinner and even which level they will move up to next term. Despite whatever grade these children do achieve after their level up test, these pushy parents will argue and moan until their child is a level above their friends/rivals. That just so happens to be a level above what the child is actually capable of, leading to more pressure. But, this is a business after all, and the customer is always right...  

The Korean education system does have its problems, as do so many other countries. This world of pushy parents, peer pressure and seemingly never ending tests does have it's good side. Just look at Koreans test scores, which are some of the best in the world. However, they come at the cost of losing individuality, innovation and not to mention an alarmingly high rate of teen suicides. 

I feel like a giant hypocrite working within a system that I don't necessarily agree with. But if I can make the chore of coming to academy enjoyable as they learn and I get paid well for it, then I can't complain too much. After all money makes the world go round and whats the best way to get money? A good education, or a lottery win. 

Love, hugs and only 30 minutes of time left.

Samuel James. 

Monday 26 January 2015

Biseulsan Forest... (Monday 26th Jan 2015)

Dear Sal,

Crawling out of bed on a Sunday morning is never fun. But with only two days off a week it leaves very little opportunity to get out of Daegu and see more off the country I now call home. After a much needed cup of coffee, some breakfast and a couple of pain killers I was ready for the day ahead. I met friends at Sagin station, and after short subway ride we arrived at the bus stop that would take us to our final destination. Biseulan Forest, which has been transformed over the last few weeks in to a frozen wonderland.

The forest is famous for it's beautiful natural scenery and is a popular destination all year round. Located at the base of the Biseulsan Mountain, the forest lays in a valley that is littered with rock formations, stunning cliff walls and a number of small streams and waterfalls. But in winter the place is a different world, a man made fortress of solitude, with ice caves and ice towers. There was something called an ice garden, which just turned out to be a very small ice rink, where parents dragged their children around on tiny sleds that could barely carry them. There was even a hill of ice to come sledding down, but for children only. I was very disappointed. 

After hours of traveling on the subway, the bus and by foot, as well as struggling to keep my balance as I walked on the icy ground, I was famished. As we approached the end of our ice expedition, we saw the welcome sight of food vendors, and I knew just what I wanted, a corn dog. Prior to coming to Korea I had never tried one of these things before, they are one of the many american influences that you will find everywhere here. They are not that great, or particularly healthy, but sometimes you just get a craving for that thing you know you don't need. I eagerly made my way to purchase one. 

One thing I do not like about living in Korea is some peoples inability to line up properly. In fact not just Korea, people all over the world who lack basic manners. As I stood with my friend, trying to figure out which corn dog I wanted, a large number of people pushed their way in front of me. Barking their orders at the poor women standing behind the counter, who looked like she was ready to give up on life. When I finally did get to order I was told to join the back of the line, the line I had been in front of for the last five minutes. Of course the language barrier made it hard to argue my cause, so I gave up. Frustrated, I went in search of another vendor. There wasn't any. I went back with my tail between my legs to order my food. This was still a far more complex ordeal then was necessary and was the only damper on an otherwise lovely day. 

Love, hugs and I just want a bloody corn dog!

Samuel James.







Wednesday 14 January 2015

Difficult Decision... (Wednesday 14th Jan 2015)

Dear Sal,

This week I have had to make a very difficult decision. The last seven days I have been going back and forth in my mind as to what to do about my future? Should I stay at my current job, or should I go? My initial thought was simply to leave. I could always find a new job. I asked friends for advice, but was really just looking for them to confirm what I was telling myself, and they did. By Thursday evening I had made up my mind, I would go, decision made, job done. But, then the doubt crept in.

My biggest concern was money. The cost of traveling and taking a Celta course, not to mention flying half way round the world and back would be very expensive. As well as the tedious, and agonizing process of searching for a new job. Reapplying for my criminal records check, getting it notarized and then apostilled. And while I have been able to save up a sizable amount over the last few months, after everything I had planned, I would have nothing left in my bank account. Nothing to show for a year away. 

So, I decided to stay, if my requests were met that is. I wasn't asking for the world, only what I felt I deserve and I was given it. This means I won't be returning to England until June now. It seems like such a long way off at the moment, but I know the time will fly by, just as it has done for the past eleven months.

Love, hugs and one more year. 

Samuel James

Sunday 11 January 2015

Tarot Card Reader... (Sunday 11th Jan 2015)

Dear Sal,


I hope you are well and are getting ready for your move to Korea next month. Tomorrow I will find out if i get what I asked for and whether I will be staying at my job for another year or leaving when you arrive at the end of February and start to look for a new one. I don't feel as nervous as I have been over the last seven days, because I know what ever the out come it is whats is meant to happen. 

Today I went to a friends birthday dinner, while we where eating we started talking about fortune tellers and if we believe in them or not. I have always been skeptical in the past, and always dismissed the idea as nonsense. But in the back of my mind I wanted them to be real. After our long discussion we decided we would put this to the test, and went in search of a tarot card reader, I didn't realise how many there are in down town Daegu, we where taken to the one who was described as the real deal, apparently. After waiting patiently, they are very popular here it would seem, I was asked to choose what I wanted to know about, I thought about saying money or work, but instead asked for love, as everyone else had, and I was curious. 

I was asked to select ten cards with my left hand while thinking of my ideal partner, of course I thought of you. I then had to pick five more cards from a different pack, these were colours that represented my personality. Once they had been chosen they where flip over one by one. The fist showed a man lying on his front with several swords in his back. The women spoke softly as she looked in to my eyes, in Korean of course, my friend Scarlet sat beside me translating. She asked if I had a partner, I said yes and she said that we fight at lot, but it was good because it meant we have passion. She pulled the other cards one by one revealing more details. She said they like to travel and that they are very demanding, but that I loved them and would follow them anywhere. She also said that I needed to message them more, because if I didn't they would be hurt and think I didn't love them, which of course I do. She said we both loved sex and had good sex. She also said that they are the one I was meant to find, and I would marry them. But someone would try to steal me away, someone older and I was not to let them. She also said an ex would contact me and this would make them angry.  

It was very surreal, to hear all these things, and as I listen I began to question my original skepticism. After hearing my friends Mallory and Thomas have theirs done as well only added to this. Mallory was told she is surrounded by men, but cheats and will meet three men in the next three months. And Thomas that he isn't interested in his current girlfriend, and gives up to easily in relationships but he would get married, and soon. 

This bizarre Sunday activity distracted me from the worried of tomorrow and made me feel good about my future. Whether it's real or not, I think the impact of having it done effects the decisions people make afterwards, a self fulfilling prophecy. But what do you believe? 

Love, hugs and I see a short Jewish girl in my future.

Samuel James.