Dear Sal... A collection of letters home to England from South Korea.

Wednesday 19 November 2014

One Term Left... (Wednesday 19th Nov 2014)

Dear Sal,

I woke up feeling incredibly motivated today. I think the surprise of not being hangover may have been a shocked to my body. None the less, I got out of bed and was ready for the day ahead. Recently I have been spending less and saving more. I am also smoking a lot less and spending more time at the gym, I feel goodThe last week of term sees many changes as students level up or stay in same class, old teachers leaves and new ones arrive. Two of my work colleges will be going at the end of this term, but only one will replace them.

Who our new compardre will be is always shrouded in mystery, as the days dwindle until their arrival. But there is another topic of conversation that occupies our day to day conversation in the break room. The new term schedule. Which classes will we get? Who gets the higher levels? Who gets the lower ones? who's working the most? And the most important question of all, who is working the least? within less then a few days all these questions will be answered. But I already have a feeling, in the pit of my stomach, that It will be I who be working the most, and I who will have the higher levels. And that sucks.

Unless this next term goes completely tits up, I plan on staying in Korea for another year. That is of course after a short three month break, that's one whole term off. I have yet to ask my manager if this will be OK, but after losing four teachers in as many months I hope that she doesn't want to lose me as well. 

The current plan is still not set in stone but will be along the lines of flying to Thailand with Jason and both of us taking our Celta. Looking back now, I had the time and the money to have done this before leaving England, but now is as good as anytime. After the month long training, I will make my way back to England. Although, which root I will take is still up for debate. Possibly through Russia on the Tran Siberian Railway or perhaps I will spend longer in Asia, maybe go to Vietnam or Cambodia. I have no idea, but I am very excited by the prospect of traveling.

However, I still need to talk to my manager and get through one more term, not to mention this week...

Love, hugs and only three days left. 

Samuel James

Tuesday 18 November 2014

Oriental Medical Museum... (Sunday 9th Nov 2014)

Dear Sal,

As the winter roles in the weather plummets to ridiculous levels of cold I once long for in the summer, but now loath with a passion. This debilitating temperature limits the choices when it comes to weekend activities. But the city of Daegu offers many indoor antics to keep you occupied. This weekend I found myself at the Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medical Museum. 

Tucked away just outside the down town area of Daegu, this museum is actually one of three Korean traditional medicine markets in the country. Proving traditional ingredients not only to the local people of Korea but also the their neighbors in China, Russia and Japan. The museum and market help to persevere Daegu as the birthplace of Korean traditional medicine distribution, or at least that's what the leaflet I pick up by the door said. 

Unfortunately we came on a day that the market was closed, but there was plenty to see and do over the three story building. They had a 'do it yourself' health check zone. You can measure your blood pressure, height, weight and body fat percent. I was taller then I thought I was, but also a little fatter then when I left England. They also told you what foods and drinks you should and shouldn't be eating for your body type. I'm to steer clear of milk apparently, but soju is absolutely fine. You could also dress up in the traditional Korean clothes of Hanbok. All this without any supervision what so ever, and a strange aroma in the air that you can't quite put your finger on. 

There is also a small roof top garden to walk around, a gift shop that had a funky smell and you could even get an oriental medicine foot bath for the small fee of five thousand Won. All in all it's not a bad place to spend a few hours on a cold Saturday after noon. 

Love, hugs and oh dear lord, what is that smell?

Samuel James.





Monday 17 November 2014

YMCA, Bimibap cooking class... (Saturday 8th of Nov 2014)

Dear Sal,

I love the food of Korea. From the delicious barbecued pork of galbi and the miracle hangover soup, haejangguk. To the sticky fried chicken that is a revelation in your mouth, even the rice. I have never eaten so much rice in my life and I love it. However, when it comes to saving money for my holiday I find myself cooking at home more and eating out less. Which means no Korean food because I don't know how to cook it. This needed to change.

Lucky for me the wonderful people over at the Daegu YMCA provide a Korean cooking class, that is completely free. The only downside is that the classes are very few and far between with limited spaces available. It's best to plan ahead and pick which ones you wish to attend and send off your form early. I missed one class already because I left it too long and I was determined not to miss another. This month, the class learned how to make the traditional Korean dish of bimibap and now I shall teach you. 

Tip One: Remember my advice about buying beef in Korea? Good, stick to it, because of this my home made bimibap will be vegetarian. 

Tip Two: We were not told to do this, because everyone in Korea has a rice cooker full of rice all the time, always, but you will need to cook some rice. Do that first and get it out of the way. 

Now we can begin...

Ingredients: Carrots, courgettes, mushrooms, radish or cabbage, bean sprouts, beef, (If your feeling fancy)eggs, rice, sesame seeds oil, sesame seeds, soy sauce, red pepper paste and salt, lots and lots of salt.

Step One: Cut the carrots, courgettes and the mushrooms very thinly, but not too thin! Just thin enough, I would say about half a Centimeter or so will do the trick. You will need to grate the radish. Once you have done all that, put them to the side for later.







Step Two: We didn't actually get to cook the beef ourselves. The woman showed us and spoke in rapid Korean as she did, so this part is a bit vague for me. Cook the beef for a few minutes in sesame seed oil, minced garlic, salt and add in some of that red pepper paste that they throw in everything over here. I think the recipe calls for a pinch of sugar, but that's up to you. They put it in everything over here.

Step Three: Next you need to mix the been spouts in a bowl with sesame seed oil, salt and more red pepper paste, which I would suggest you use at your own discretion. You need to do the same thing with the raw radish but also add a dash soy sauce.




Step Four:  You now need to lightly saute all the vegetables individually. This is extremely tedious to do, especially when you have a tiny kitchen with only a few pans to your name, but making it the traditional Korean way is essential. But If your being lazy you could throw it all in together. Make sure you use plenty of sesame seed oil and salt. Once they are cooked sprinkle them in actual sesame seeds. 




Step Five: Once that is done, place everything in an assemble line. Starting with the rice at the base in your bowl you then add each ingredient one by one in its own section of the bowl, so it looks a bit like a vegetable clock. Then once again cover it in sesame seeds and a dollop of red pepper sauce. And there you have it, your traditionally Korean bimibap is finished. 





Traditionally a bimibap comes in a hot stone bowl and just before being eaten you break a egg into it, using the bowl to cook the egg as you stir. Normally, however they just come with a fried egg lolloped on top. Feel free to cook your egg however you like, but I like my yoke to be a little bit runny.

Love, hugs and not enough salt!

Samuel James.

P.S) If you ever find yourself in Daegu and want to attend then you'll want to take exit 14, from Banwoldang Station, walk north, use your compass if your unsure. The YMCA will be on the 2nd floor of the first building on the left. Easy as pie.

Thursday 13 November 2014

Nogok Alluvial Field of Flowers... (Sunday 2nd Nov 2014)

Dear Sal,

Sundays are fast becoming my favorite day of the week. Back in England I used to hate Sundays. Working the next day meant having to go to bed early and waking up early after two blissful days of lay ins. Sunday had a feeling of impending doom, as the Monday blues where right around the corner. But in Korea, that feeling is gone and a Sunday feels a lot more like a Saturday, except with less people to annoy me. And the Monday blues don't seem as bad when you start work at four. 

This Sunday saw us adventure to the Cosmos field on the small island of Nogok Alluvial in the Geumho River, which runs through Daegu. From a far the island doesn't look very impressive, like a brown cornfield without the corn. As you drive over the bridge that takes you to the island it looks like you're in for a disappointment. But as soon as you get up close you see the vast sea of pink and lilac and your doubt is instantly lifted. The simple bike/walking trail twist and turns through a variety of different flowers and tall grasses for you to get lost in for the afternoon. 








This place was beautiful and Its the perfect place to go on a Sunday or to take a date. We saw many Korea couples walking round, hand in hand, matching clothes and selfie sticks at the ready. We even saw one couple who were clearly breaking up. They even took picture, the guy with his back to the girl as she cried, only in Korea. 

Love, hugs and I don't love you anymore, But let's take a selfie.

Samuel James.

Monday 10 November 2014

Happy Halloween... (Friday 31st Oct 2014)

Dear Sal,

November has finally arrived and the leaves have begun to turn orange and gold, littering the pavement and parks. The clouds roll in and the temperature beings its slow decent into winter. Autumn is here, which means its time for Halloween. I spent the weeks building up to thirty-first watching old horror films with Jason. Oh, and the new American Horror Story. Have you been watching it? I'm not sure how I feel about it yet, but I will give it time. After he left last week, I have been watching the films by myself. The Conjuring alone, wasn't the best idea. 

The last week of October saw our students take their level up test. A test that measure there English abilities and whether they should advance to the next level or stay where they are. The students hate it, but I don't. Two and half hours where they sit in silence, leaving me ample opportunity to finish my work, grade papers, prepare for future lessons or, plan my holiday. There is only one month to go and I can't wait. But wait I must.

After the last test of the week we had about thirty minuets until the end of the lesson. We where told to spend it doing a writing activity. But it was Halloween, and they just spent two and half hours doing a test, they deserved a break. So, I gave them chocolate and I asked them to tell me Korean ghost stories. Out of the few I was told I liked this one the most...


The Red Masked Woman 
(By Korean girl whose name I can't remember.)

You should tread carefully when walking home late at night this time of year. For if you find yourself alone in a dark ally, you may come face to face with the red masked women. 
She was said to have been a pretty girl once, but she was deeply unhappy with how she looked. So, like many Koreans, she had surgery to change her face. But she still wasn't happy. So, once again, she went under the knife, but she was still miserably. So she had more work done, and more, and more until she no longer resembled a woman at all, but a monster. 
Devastated by her ruined face, the women wore a red mask to hide her hideous appearance. She lived in misery, Terrifying anyone who laid eyes on her. No longer able to handle her life she killed herself, cutting her throat to match her butchered face. 
Since then, she will appear when you are alone In the middle of the night and ask you one simple question: "Do you think I look beautiful?"
If the answer is no, then she will kill you for being honest. But if the answer is yes, then she will remove her mask and present to you her face, before taking the same knife she used to kill herself with to make you look just like her.  



Whatever way you look at it you're screwed. But apparently, a friend of the girl who told the story older sister, knows someone whos older brothers friends cousin, actually bumped into the red masked women one fateful night. How did he lived to tell the tale? I asked. He tricked her, or confused her should I say. When asked the question he responded with "do you think you are beautiful?" Or "what is beauty?" Or some other stupid thing like that. And with that, she started to cry and just disappeared. BOO!


Sorry it's not the best ghost story, but it's the best one the told me. 

Love, hugs and sweet dreams.

Samuel James.

Thursday 6 November 2014

Busan Fireworks Festival, Part Two... (Sunday 26th Oct 2014)

Dear Sal,

After my initial resentment for Busan earlier in the day, the firework spectacular had completely won me over. It was well worth the two hour wait on a cold hard pavement, the horrendous crowds and the occasional woft of sewage. It was such a nice evening, filled with a wonderful show, good food and good company. I was happy we had decided to come. However, the events that would come to follow were about to change my mind.

After the skies fell silent, we waited patiently on our little blanket for the crowds to disperse. We ate the remainder of our food and finished the last of our drinks. My throat had started to go dry, and I felt secure in the knowledge that everyone was leaving and finding a toilet wouldn't be a challenge now. We assumed we would be waiting quite a while for the crowds to clear, but these Koreans don't hang about. Within less then twenty minutes over half the people had left the beach. The sand was visible once again, but so was a sea of litter that they had carelessly drop on the ground as they left. Welcome to Korea, where the floor is you dustbin. 

We decided to meet up with some friends in the same area, who had witnessed the fireworks from the comfort of a restaurant that over looked the beach. They had a wonderful view from a second floor restaurant, with all the chicken and beer they could eat or drink, for a price of course. Three-hundred thousand won. Seems a little steep, but split six ways it wasn't so bad for them. What ever way you choose to watch the fireworks, you will still have a great night. 

We stayed there for about an hour before making our way down the beach to another bar, to find yet more friends who where in Busan for the weekend. And I am so glad we did, as the festival finished the sales started. All the food stands along the beach where slashing their prices in a bid to off load the excess goods they clearly over stocked for the evening. I got a foot long sausage on a stick for two thousand won, and a whole fried chicken for five. Me and Jason sat on the beach and devoured half of it and enjoyed a laser show that was being projected on to the water. 

For a while, the evening seemed to be going along swimmingly. That was until we made it in to the first bar. It was so busy, understandably. Waiting, for what seemed like a lifetime, to buy a drink is nothing new to be but this was out of hand. People pushing in front of each other, obnoxious drunk people arguing over nothing. In the end I gave up, I'd get one later when it's died down a bit. But it didn't die down, it only got worse.

As the even wore on the group descended in different levels of inebriation and disappearing into the night. We where dropping members like flies. It seemed everyone was heading from Gwangalli beach over to Haeundae, which was fine with me. That was the place me and Jason would be staying that night, or at least hoping to. We rallied the troops and made our way to our next location. 

We waiting over an hour and a half to get a taxi. An hour and a half, can you believe that? We walked from the beach well in to the city to the main road that runs the length a Busan, with no luck. We attempted to hail down countless taxis, raced people to them only to be turned away or have them drive away from us. The Koreans didn't seem to have any such trouble, funny that. We were told to get out of two taxis because they didn't want to have turn around to get to Haeundae. I was livid, and I wasn't the only one. I don't know how many cigarettes I smoked by the time we made it to our destination, but we did and our night could finally continue. 

But the damage was done. The buzz had worn off and I was feeling exhausted from the evenings escaped. At this point it was about three in the morning and no one else was showing signs of slowing down. With Jason saying his final goodbyes to some of his closest friends, a joint birthday celebration and no where to go, I was stuck there. By the time five rolled around me and Jason discussed our plans for traveling back the next day. We would have to leave at ten, which meant getting up at the like eight thirty, which meant even if we left now for the jinjanbang we would only get a little over two hours sleep, if we were lucky. Reluctantly, we made the decision to stay up a little bit longer and get the first KTX back to Deagu. 

I was running on a little over three hours of sleep when I said my farewell to Jason at the bus station later that day, our second goodbye in as many months. I will be seeing him again next month in Malaysia, but until then we shall have only the means of Facebook and Skype to communicate. We should probably think about doing that, all this letter writing gets a little tiring at times and its so out dated. 

Love, Hugs and why won't any bloody cars stop!?

Samuel James.