Busan Fireworks Festival, Part One.... (Saturday 25th Oct 2014)

Dear Sal,

Another weekend, another festival. At least that's how it seems here in Korea. Maybe they throw the word festival around a little too much, but it does mean there is always something to do at weekends. This weekend saw the 10th annual Busan Firework Festival, an event that attracts over one million spectators from all over the country every year.

I had heard from many people that if your going to Busan for this weekend you need to plan ahead. Book your KTX tickets because they will all be sold out. Find a place to stay in advanced because everywhere is going to be full to capacity. Get there early because all the good spots will be taken. This all sounded like a little bit too much work for me, not to mention the cost. Getting down there, Spending most of the afternoon and all evening out eating and drinking. And then, a place to stay on top of that. No, thank you very much. So, I declined. I would remain in Daegu and save some money. But of course that wasn't to be.

Jason had returned to Korea to visit for two weeks. His last night however, fell on the night of the fireworks festival. All our friends would be in another city enjoying the night skies light up on the beach, which of course meant we had to go. I will be honest, I would rather have stayed in Daegu for financial  reasons, but also because I just hate being surrounded by large groups of people. It seems it doesn't matter where you go in the world, the general public are still annoying.

Being under the impression there would be no seats left on the KTX, we made our way to Don Daegu Express Bus Terminal. As nice as the KTX is, I much prefer the buses in Korea. You get a bigger seat, that reclines so you can sleep, you can control the air conditioning and it's cheaper. Sure there isn't a toilet, but I like the rest stop, twenty minuets to visit the bathroom, buy food and snacks. It reminds me of the long car journeys I used to take on family holidays as a kid, and it fills me with a warm nostalgia.

Arriving in Busan around three PM everything seemed fine, no more people then normal at the station or on the subway. I was quietly pleased, maybe this won't be as bad as I thought. That was until we got on the the line to Gwangalli Beach. Upon descending on to the platform we where greeted with giant hoards of people, and I'm not exaggerating. We had to wait for three trains to go through before we could even get on and when we did, it was even more unpleasant. There were ten stops until we could get off. Ten stops of being cramped into a train carriage surrounding by Koreans, pressed right up against you. So close that if one of them fell, you all fell. I wanted to take a picture but was unable to move arm from my side. I felt sweat beads slowly dripping down my forehead and the elbow of the girl behind me press into my back every time the subway pulled away from a station. I began to feel extremely claustrophobic as the Journey seemed to never end.

After what seemed like forever, we arrived at our destination. Well actually we decided to get off the stop before a walk, an idea we shared with many of the other passengers, to escape the nightmare of the carriage.

Walking down the crescent moon shaped beach of Gwangalli, which I had done previously with Jason in July, was a completely different experience this time round. The beach was flooded with people, a sea of heads was all that could be seen from the road to the sea. Police were everywhere, waving around glowing batons in some desperate hope to help guide the meandering crowd. We walked the whole length of the beach until we finally settled on a spot that felt was enough out of the way and with a sufficiently decent view.

We found a place on the opposite side of the road from the beach, laid out a towel and sat down. To save money we had brought our own food and drinks. As we walked along the beech earlier I assessed the toilet situation for the evening, and it was just as I expected. There was a number of portaloos placed along the beech, but only a small number of them. As I told you early there were over a million people there that night and the queues where horrendous. People lined up for what looked like hours. I'm sure it wasn't that bad, but still I decided I wouldn't be drinking anything, not yet anyway. As we sat, we took out the food we had brought, a traditional Korean meal of kimchi, rice and Bulgogi. Even cold it still tasted delicious. 

After a nearly two hour wait, the fireworks started. The show itself is pretty impressive, as thousands of rockets were launched from the bridge that faces the beach. Illuminating the night sky with an array of colours. They had everything in the forty five minute extravaganza, from the standard glittering explosions, to giants ones that where almost blinding. At one point I felt like they would never end and we would all be engulfed. They even had hearts shaped ones, that looked more like an awkward penis. 

By far the best thing about the show was the Korean people reactions, they were amazed by the whole thing, ooohing and aaahing at almost every bang and crackle. And of course clapping every time they stopped for a brief moment. They are so easily entertained, bless them.

Love, hugs and Oooooh...

Samuel James.

P.S) My camera is crap at taking pictures at night, and even worse at taking pictures of fireworks. As you can see for yourself...

Moussaka, Korean Style... (Tuesday 7th Oct 2014)

Dear Sal,

September went by in a blur too quickly. I didn't get half the things done I had planned. This term I have been given higher level classes and some more challenging students. You could argue that's a good sign, that they think I'm a good teacher or that they just hate me. Either way, I am having to put in more time to preparing my lessons and understanding what the hell I'm teaching them. I have learned so many new jargon words and finally understand the difference between irony and sarcasm.

However, the month hasn't been a complete waste of my time. I joined the gym, and have been experimenting with cooking at home a lot more. After my disastrous first attempt I have finally became an old pro and I'm regularly making food for dinners, lunches and to share with friends and work colleges. This week I made a moussaka, or should I say, my own version of a Korean moussaka. I have spend a very long time, hunting around Daegu over the last few months, sniffing out all the herbs and spices that are essential to my kitchen cupboard. For my simple Korean moussaka, I only used, black pepper, salt, cumin, cinnanmon, oregano. 

Here is my recipe... 

Tip number one: Lamb is almost impossible to find out here in Korea and if you do it's ridiculously expensive. So I went for the next best thing, beef.

Tip number two: Beef is ridiculously expensive here in Korea and you should probable go for the third best thing, pork. I didn't notice this until I got home and looked at my recipe. I had spend twenty five thousand Won on two packs of beef. That's about fifteen pounds to you, a rip off.

Ingredients: Lamb, Beef, Pork. Garlic, one onions, two aubergine, a few new potatoes and a tin of chopped tomatoes. Olive oil, black pepper, salt, cumin, cinnamon and oregano. Flour, butter and milk. And of course, cheese! 

Step One: Cut the aubergine, I refuse to call it an eggplant even when surrounded my Americans, into slices about one cm thick, cover them in a little olive oil, salt and pepper. You then need to place them under the grill for about ten mins to dry them out a bit, you don't want a wet moussaka.

Step Two: Peal and cut the potatoes, to about the same thickness as the eggplant, I mean aubergine damn it, boil them for about ten minutes, drain them and put them to the side.

Step Three: Chop and fry one onion with a load of garlic, I love lots of garlic and put about nine cloves in. Depending on your own taste you may want less, or more if you smoke so much you can't taste anything. Add the overly priced beef and slowly brown the mince meat, adding all the herbs and spices you want, I like a lot of oregano, you you may not, I don't really care. Just don't put the bloody nutmeg in, that's for the white sauce. After the meat is cooked add chopped tomatoes and leave to simmer until the sauce is thick and any excess liquid has boiled off. 

Step Four: In England, when it came to making white sauce, I have a fail safe technique, buy a jar. However in Korea, I can't find them anywhere(I need to look harder). But making white sauce isn't as bad as I thought it would be. The trick is to not stop stirring, ever. Melt some butter in a pan, add flower. Then slowly add milk and seasoning and keep stirring, not matter how tired your arm gets. 

Step Five: Layer your moussaka, starting with potatoes, then aubergine, a thick layer of the meat sauce, followed by the white sauce and a sprinkle of cheese on top. Keep it simple, because this dish has already been enough work. 

Step Six: Cook for about an hour or so, or until the cheese has melted and gone golden brown. And there you have it. Korean moussaka. Enjoy.

Right, I'm off to eat. Next time I might try cooking something that is actually Korean. But until then...

Love, Hugs and bon appetit

Samuel James

Andong Mask Festival... (Sunday 28th September)

Dear Sal,

As September draws to close, so does the heat that has been bothering me for the last few months. Autumn is on its way, and I couldn't be happier. My favorite time of year is fast approaching, and I mean Halloween, not Christmas. Once again I refused to lose another Sunday to a hangover and was determined to get out of my apartment and explore the sights and sounds that Korea has to offer. This week my friend Anna invited me to join her on a day trip to Andong to see the Mask Festival, a showcase of Korean culture, masks and dance. 

Andong is well known throughout Korea for its culture and folk transitions, but it is best known for it's mask festival. Mask wearing is an ancient tradition in Korea, they used to ward of evil spirits apparently, that is celebrated is an annul event that last for a week. There are a variety of traditional masked dance show to see, for a fee of course, budget permitting. In the end we decided not to see a show. But the experience of the day was well worth the trip, even without seeing one of them.

There was plenty to see and do at the Andong Mask Festival. From the large market of world foods, clothing, jewelry and masks. To Halloween costumes and decorations. You can of course make your own mask, with many opportunities and different options to choose from. Some of the people we went with decided to make their own bracelets. A nice idea in theory, but in Practice it took a lot longer then you would think. And without prior practice and skill can seem like a daunting task. I decided to buy one ready made, which I plan on giving it to friend as a gift. 

Love, hugs and the gift isn't for you. 

Samuel James. 

KAPS Dogs Walking... (Sunday 14th Sep 2014)

Dear Sal,

Last Sunday I woke up reasonably early for the weekend. Well, eleven, but still that's pretty early for me. I had arranged to meet a friend of mine, named Anna, to take a trip on this glorious sunny day to the KAPS dog center. Once a month or so they arrange a group dog walking event. A chance for people to come and help out at the shelter, clean the cages and give the pups some fresh water. Allowing them the opportunity to have some exercise and much needed attention that they deserve.

Now I know what your thinking, and your completely right, I am more of a cat person. But since moving back in with my parents before moving out here, I spent a lot of my time with Holly. Not the smartest of dogs by all means, but still very sweet, and I'll amid I miss her a little. Ok, a lot. Not that I have been completely without the company of a K-9 since being here. You remember my dear friend Annyoung? Love him as I do, I think I much prefer dogs to have short hair. Hair that doesn't fall out all the time and stick to every garment of clothing you are wearing. 

I met Anna at Sagin Subway station, the KAPS dog center was only a few stops down the red subway line, Daemyeong Subway, which doesn't take very long at all. After leaving from exit four we made our way the short distance past the lift (I refuse to call them elevators) before turning left, we walked through a restaurant car park and arrived at the KAPS Dog center, you couldn't miss it. It was the place with the big KAPS sign and swamped by people. 

Of course, being an organised event that is open to anyone on Facebook meant that a larger number of people turned up then was expected. I believe only ten dogs could be walked that day and their was over thirty people. A seemingly surprised man who works their suggested we take it in turns to walk the dogs, or visit the cat sanctuary round the corner. Not to deprive others, especially the little children who looked so excited at the prospect of having their own dog to walk, we decided to visit the cats. 

The cat sanctuary was about ten times better then the cat cafe I visited a few months before. There was of course an unpleasant smell, but being outside made it bearable. And the cats where not swayed with the allure of treats, they where happy just for the attention. Coming up to say hello and rubbing themselves around my ankles. We spend about forty minuets of so walking around, playing with the cats, getting bitten and scratched. It made a nice change for a Sunday afternoon. 

I plan to go back soon to visit the dogs, but when it's less busy. You can go any day you like really, the extra help is always welcome. But they prefer that you come after two. Oh, and it's not open on Monday or Thursdays. 

Love, hugs and cat sound. 

Samuel James 

P.S) Please find enclosed a picture of a cat I named Lily Tomlin.

Happy Chuseok.... (Wednesday 10th Sep 2014)

Dear Sal,

Once again I have neglected you over the last few weeks and I must apologies profusely. At the beginning of September so many new faces arrived in Daegu and I fell back in to bad habits. Being less adventures and more of a budding alcoholic. But no longer. For real this time. 

The first weekend of September saw Korea celebrate their national thanksgiving holiday of Chuseok. A three day holiday where Koreans visit their ancestral hometowns and share a glorious traditional Korean feast including fermented cabbage, among other things. Schools and business alike partake in allowing students and employees three extra days off to enjoy the harvest festival. Not me thought.

Once again the English academies in Korea have out done themselves, by opening their doors when every other one is closed. Ok, so we did get one day off, which came like finding a oasis in a desert. It's one of only two days we get off a year I'm told, and no, the other is not Christmas. By some fluke of luck this blessing of more time fell the day after me Birthday, great.

As you know, I hate my birthday. Something about being reminded of my life slowly ebbing away from me each year, doesn't fill me with the joy or excitement I see others feel. With the Korean national holiday and a majority of people having a five day weekend, most of my friends were out of Daegu. I made absolutely no plans. One of my closest friends was in Seoul for four days and needed a dog sitter. I was happy to oblige. 

A small ball of white fluff, who molts so much that you find his hairs on yourself even after several days of not seeing the little monster. His name is Annyoung, which is 'hello' in Korean and confuses everyone one of them that ask what he is called. "Hello?"

As the days before my birthday dwindled I was being increasingly asked, "what are you doing?" "Do you have any plans?" from the few friends who remained in town for the weekend. Nothing different from a normal Saturday night I said. Dinner and a few drinks... and then a few more. I didn't want a fuss, but it was not meant to be. 

My friends surprised me with a cake, made of three rather delicious cupcakes, that said 'biatch' on it. I was also presented with a pair of birthday sun glasses, a head band and a flaming shot. After that evening descended into chaos. I was given a ridiculous amount of free drinks, mainly shots from the establishments I usually reside in. One 'shot' was given to me in a tumbler glass, completely filled with an unidentified red liquid, which made its way down the sink and not my mouth. I'm finally learning to drink responsibly. 

After eventually finding my way back to me friends house, I settled in with Annyoung for the night, ate some left over pasta and watched Titanic about five times. Not a bad Chuseok weekend at all. 

Love, Hugs and I'm getting to old for this ship

Samuel James.