Dear Sal... A collection of letters home to England from South Korea.

Monday, 15 September 2014

Care Package... (Thursday 4th Sep 2014)

Dear Sal,

After two weeks of the new term I have settled in to my new routine with ease. In fact, at the half way point of my year in Korea I finally feel settled in to living here. Over the last few months I have spent so much time and money going out every night, having dinner and drinks with friends. Reluctant to spend an evening alone, for obvious reason.

Last Friday I came into work to find a parcel waiting for me. I had seen so many of my coworkers received a numerous number of these care packages over the last few months that at first I thought it was a mistake. But upon further inspection, I saw my name and got very excited. The gift came for my family, which included some Jungle Formula, Savlon cream, for those pesky mosquito bites, and a large  pot a paprika, a spice that is next to impossible to find in Korea. The package also contained a number of birthday cards, for the dreaded event later this weekend, and a collection of photo's.

As I looked through them it was nice to be reminded of my family and the times we've shared, but as I continued I realised something was missing. The biggest part of the last seven years was no where to been seen, as if that part of my life had been wiped for my history. And that made me feel sad, because I don't want to forget. Not that I'm not grateful for the gift, I am. 

I placed the pictures on the wall and my apartment finally feels like home. I have finally acquired all the essential items for my kitchen, through shopping for things when and if I needed them. But also from invading peoples apartments when they leave to collect their abandoned belongings. I have a toaster oven now, this makes me very excited at the prospects of my culinary future in Korea. 

Love, hugs and twenty minutes at a hundred and eighty degrees.

Samuel James

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

"People come and go so quickly here..." (Tuesday 2nd Sep 2014)

Dear Sal,

Sorry I haven't written sooner, the new term began last week and I have been extremely busy. With new classes to prepare for, new students names to remember and a new schedule to adjust to I have been rushed off my feet. The hectic last couple of weeks had almost distracted me from some of my close friends departure at the end of last term.

I hate saying goodbye. It's so hard. Coming to Korea you are thrown into such a strange environment that you develop such close bonds and friendships so fast. These people become family, you love them, you hate them and at the same time you need them. Unfortunately these intense relationship don't last, as people come and go so quickly here. And while some friendships are destine to remain in that bar when you where both drunk, every Friday for the last five months. Others are meant to last longer, way past the contract obligations of teaching in Korea.

I remember the process of the final goodbyes before leaving England six months ago, it was sad, but in the back of mind I knew this was only a temporary thing. I would come back to my friends and family eventually. But the friends you make here share a very unique experience that bonds you in a way I never expected. It's a bit like university, but without knowing that your parents can drive up at any point to rescue you when needed. You are completely alone with only your new friends for company, for stability. 

In the last week, a large number of people have come and gone. Some who I shared fleeting moments of fun with, who will fade from my mind within the next few months. And others who have made such an impact on my life I will never forget them, and never want to forget.

This year I already had to say the hardest goodbye of my life, I never expected I would be doing it again so soon. 

Love, hugs and see you later...

Samuel James.

Friday, 29 August 2014

Summer Intensives... Part Four (Friday 22nd 2014)

Dear Sal...

Crack open the vodka and  prepare the bunting. The day has finally arrived. After four long weeks of early morning classes, I can breath a sigh of relief. Summer intensives are over. 

The last week of term has been chaos. After my room change on Monday I have nothing but problems all week. A man came Wednesday morning to put WiFi in my class room, which meant me and my students had to evacuate to another room, only for me to find my files wouldn't work on that computer. So off we went on an escapade to find yet another room suitable for my needs. For the rest of this week I have been migrating from room to room like a nomad.

The last week of term, as joyuous event as it is, has one financial downside. Pizza parties. I suppose it's a good idea. It certainly makes the kids happy and behave themselves. But buying pizza for over forty or so kids soon racks up. That's right, we have to pay for our own students. You think the school, who are making a small fortune I'm sure, would be kind enough to foot the bill. But no. They have been fun; Eating, talking, playing games and listening to music. A Korean teenage girl turns from a sweet, softly spoken thing into a squealing mess at the sight of EXO. a boy bad, I've been lead to believe, consisting of eleven members. I deeply regret playing that music video and can't get the bloody song out of my head.

A new teacher arrives tonight. We are going for a meal at the same place that we went on my first night, as the tradition continues. I can still remember like it was yesterday. The nerves, the tiredness, the confusion. I miss it. I look forward to meeting our new college and to reassure her she'll be fine.
I hope you had a good birthday and didn't drink too much. Who am I kidding?

Love, hugs and if I see one more bloody pizza...

Samuel James

Monday, 18 August 2014

Every Duck has its Day... (Monday 18th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

How I wish there was some sort of break between each term, but alas, this is Korea. As one term ends on Friday another begins on Monday. There is not a single week, let alone day off for this fool. The last week of term started off like so many over the last month, raining. There had been a plan to spend Sunday at Suseong Lake, riding the duck paddle boats before going to a near by restaurant to eat duck. The rain however had other ideas. 

The loss of our adventure on the paddle boats was no skin off my back, having previously experience the, harder then you would expect, activity a few months before. It was the meal of duck I was looking forward too and it didn't disappoint. Quite possibly the best meal I have had in Korea, I will defiantly be coming back for more. As we ran through the now pouring rain to our taxis home I had one thought on my mind, only one week of intensives left, thank the lord. 

The rain continued all night and well into the next day, and while I heard tale of some peoples class rooms being flooded I found mine to be dry as a bone, but empty. No desks, no chairs and none of my belongings. A photocopier now resided at the back of my class where I had often stood to see if the students were doing their work or surfing the internet. What the-? 

"Sam Sam?" I heard my name being called from my mangers office across the hall. Apparently their brilliant new idea was to turn my class room into a copy room and parents consultation room. I had been ousted down the hall to room 707, the end of the line. Not a problem at all, with a new teacher coming next week I would be moving class room anyway, so why not now. It wasn't until about fifteen minuets before class started that I discovered my first problem. 

As I moved desks around I glaceed to above the white board, I thought I would check what my WiFi code was so I could write it down to make the students lives easier. WiFi is essential for the tablet classes, to connect to the students tablets and the lessons themselves. There was nothing there. No little white box blinking green lights at me. They had moved me to a room with no WiFi, a room in which I could not teach. After a brief moment of panic and a swift reshuffling of class rooms, everything was sorted, kind of. I had a class room with WiFi, but it wasn't mine. I had to move to another room for my next class adding to the confusion. Who knows where I will end up for the rest of the week. 

My second problem however, was much more severe. No remote to turn on the air-con... it hangs from the ceiling eight foot above my head taunting me. I don't know if I can make it.

Love, hugs and wait, where is the remote?!

Samuel James.

Sunday, 17 August 2014

Summer Intensives... Part Three (Sunday 17th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal...

This week has been a horrendous crawl to the finish line. I thought I would have gotten used to the early starts and late nights by now, but I'm not. I guess I'm just not as young as I used to be. My body is really taking a hit and for the first time since coming to Korea I feel unwell. In My first few months in Korea my body was able to with stand so much. A complete cultural diet change, a new sleeping pattern and a excessively increased alcohol level. And I felt fine. A little tired every now again but fine. Maybe a little bit hungover, ok, a lot hangover, but fine. 

Back in England I suffered constantly with bad hay fever and allergic reactions to numerous things, not taking any medicine played its part. I thought I would be much the same in Korea. But after being here this long and feeling fine I started to wonder why. Maybe a plant exclusive to the English shores or perhaps the climate. Whatever it is, in Korea I have been free of this demon that has haunted me for years. However, after three weeks or lack of sleep due to these summer intensives my body seems to be finally giving up. It feels like I have a cold and I bloody well hate it.

One of my students brought me in some onion juice proclaiming, "it good for health." That it may be, but it tasted vile. I'd rather eat an onion like an apple then drink that again. I had about six of my young students crowd round me as I began to drink. "One shot, one shot, one shot" they chanted, but I was unable to complete the task. I love onions, in a lasagna, just not in juice form. I do not intend to have anymore, even if it will help me "live many Year"

The knowledge that there is only one week left of these lesson is a blessing. I long to have my mornings back. But also knowing that the term ends at the same time brings other feelings, as some people leave and new ones arrive.

Love, hugs and ah, ah, ah choo!

Samuel James

Thursday, 14 August 2014

Busan... (Thursday 14th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

A few weekends ago I made my way down to Busan. We had been planning to go on and off for a few weeks, but every time something came up. Usually a hangover. This week however the excuse was lack of money. So I made plans to have a few drinks with some friends on Friday and spend my Saturday relaxing/recovering. That was until I woke up to find a message, "come to Busan. now." I hesitantly pealed myself off my friends sofa, where I had past out a few hours before and slowly made my way home to get ready to go. 

The KTX journey from Daegu to Busan takes about an hour and twenty minutes. It costs only fifteen thousand won, which is not bad, I don't know why I don't do this more often. When I finally arrived the veil of my hangover was gradually beginning to lift. I met Jason, who had arrived several hours prior, and we were off. The first stop was the fish market. The sight of some of these deceased fish did nothing for my stomach, which ached still from the night before. Looking into their googly eyes lifelessly staring back at me I thought, things could be worse. 





I don't know why but in every market in Korea they will all serve the same dish, a united front maybe. In Daegu it's soup, in Cheonan it was fried chicken and in Busan it's fried fish. We walked past fried fish after fried fish until we eventually decided we would reluctantly eat it, but which one? This wasn't a problem, as we where accosted by an ajummar, who swiftly took us inside her eatery. We removed our shoes and found our way to some empty seats, and by seats I mean a small flat cushion on the floor. I don't think I will ever get used to sitting like this to eat. 

Later, as we walked along the the cost to Haeundae through the light drizzle of rain, I had some stomach pains. They caused me to have to stop and sit down for a while. Maybe it was something I ate or maybe the soju we had with our late lunch, but after a sort time it had passed and we continued to look for food before finding a place to sleep for the night. 
This isn't my first visit to Busan, in fact the first time I came here was over three years ago when David and I came to visit Lily. So I Had a weird sense of deja vu when we randomly found the the same jimjibang that the three of us had stayed in all those years ago. I couldn't sleep on the flimsy towel provided, so I sat on the balcony smoking a cigarette looking over the city, thinking about how much my life has changed. 



Then next morning I awoke in a room full of passed out Koreans softly snoring all around me. The clouds from the day before had cleared and the sun was shinning. I brought a pair of cheep flip-flops from a crazy Korean women, who kept proclaiming things like "sexy clothes for sexy ladies" and "you give me money" to random passers by. Jason responded with a firm "ha" which sent her in to hysterics, she had a need phrase to exclaim and she wasted no time in using it. We heard "ha" repeated several times as we walked away. We continued along the the beach all afternoon from Haeundae to Suyeong-gu, stopping at various locations along the way. We found sustenance in a nice Korean place, where we played the game of chance and won... kind of. We think we may have eaten raw eel, which isn't half as bad as it sounds.


 


Strolling in the hot sun felt wonderful, feeling the cool water rush over my feet kept me at a comfortable temperature. After several hours we arrived at the United Nations Memorial garden, another place I have been before and took a quick look around, just at the right moment. We witness the daily ritual of lowering the flag. Each move was so precise, so exact its was almost like a dance. So much love and care was taken just to to take down a colorful piece of fabric, which means so much to so many people.

Busans relaxed environment, make it the perfect place to get away too at the weekends, I didn't want to leave. If I stay in Korea another year maybe I will move down here... 

Love, hugs and raw eels.

Samuel James.

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

And the rain, rain, rain, come down, down, down... (Wednesday 13th Aug 2014)

Dear Sal,

Over the last few months we have been blessed in Daegu with exceptionally good weather, according to some people. But not now. It's typhoon season and it's been raining, a lot. While the westerners complain and moan, and the Koreans run for shelter and refuse to come out, I welcome the downpours with open arms. The air turns from the sweat dripping humidity, to refreshingly cool and damp. Not that I can really enjoy this change in weather as I spend most of the week in a windowless cell. I mean, classroom. 

Wednesday arrives and is like an oasis in the desert of Korean education. Finishing work at seven instead of ten makes a massive difference. The much needed evening class off makes Wednesdays one of my favorite days of the week. This week I went for dinner and drinks with friends. 

The decision making process as to where to eat is always a struggle. I have learned to go with the flow. Allowing other, more fussy people, to make the final call. I am more then happy to try anything in this country. I mean, I've already nearly eaten a whole pig. Belly, back, neck, intestine even hoof, the meat that is. I'm still looking for a restaurant that serves snout, but have found no success thus far. It was finally decided that we would dine in a place called 'What', a Korean barbecue place. 

For the last two months I have been on a beer ban. I had been drinking too much, it's a waste of money and I genuinely just hate the stuff. However, that evening I caved. I fell victim to peer pressure and had a beer. We also drank soju, bloody, buggery soju. As the night progressed so did the drinks. I originally planned to leave around eleven. This curfew was push back to twelve, then again to one. Around two I thought, maybe it's best to call it a night. But after drinking so much I thought it would be a good idea to get something to eat first. The last time I mixed this much alcohol I had one of the worst hangovers of my life, and I didn't want that to happen again. 

I have been in Korea for six months and I still have yet to learn the language. Something I have been meaning to do every week since I arrived. So going to traditional Korean restaurants is always a game of chance. Normally, it is as simple as pointing to a picture on the wall and hoping the meat is pork and not dog, but last night there where no pictures... So, after some tough decision making on my part, I pointed at two dishes with absolutely no idea what I had just ordered. 

I was pleasantly surprise by the first dish, which was some sort of blood sausage. The second dish however, left me slightly concerned. When I asked the woman what meat I was reluctantly consuming, she rubbed her belly and said 'baby'. I only hope she didn't mean hers. Whatever I ate, the next day I was blessed with no hangover. Had I finally found the cure I've searching for all these years? Only time will tell...

Love, hugs and what the hell is this?

Samuel James